‘Every Cook Should Train At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Restaurants.
Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.
A Surprise Recognition
The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family totally astonished.
“I’m utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Modesty
The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.
A Signature Dish: Tantuni
In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.
The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.
The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.
Rising Above the Titans
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.
A Creed of Warmth
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.
“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.
The Story of Perseverance
In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
A Accomplishment for the Culture
This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary triumph.